PILIPINO KA BA? (11/25)

by Almira Astudillo Gilles

In the Philippines, we have an All Souls Day tradition of going  to the cemetery and keeping vigil. As is customary with any prolonged Filipino activity, having food sufficient for the length of the visit is of primary concern, so we bring “baon.”

Feast of All Souls

We visit our beloved departed 

in the cemetery 

haggling with the young boy

selling candles at the gate.

He knows how much we love 

our dead.

The souls wait for us

impatient between the tombstones

ready to chastise about

neglected promises

heirlooms discarded.

Calvary Cemetery in Evanston, photo by Almira Astudillo Gilles

With a twinge of regret, we recall

insults hurled in anger

or a grace withheld.

Have we said enough prayers 

to get them out of purgatory?

But we don’t dwell too long on these; our food is getting cold.

We unpack our baon

and reminisce

that right before Tony died

he ate seafood

or that Ella liked adobo 

with coconut milk.

And while we spend the day 

with people left behind

the souls sit on their tombstones

watching us 

as we light white candles, 

murmur fervent prayers, 

bury old regrets.


Almira Astudillo Gilles (almiragilles@gmail.com) describes her heart’s work as conservation in two areas: indigenous cultural heritage and natural resources. Her cultural heritage work includes a John D. and Catherine T. MacArthur Foundation grant for Art and Anthropology Project: Portrait of the Object as Filipino, an international artist exchange. She was the founder of 10,000 Kwentos (“Stories”) at the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago, a model of direct community engagement with the museum’s Philippine ethnographic collection.


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